Herberton historic village

Day 36 - Herberton - rest day

I had a shower and washed my clothes for the first time in a while and my devices were charged.

I walked over to the historic village for opening and headed in. Wow what a place, it's jam packed full of original historic belongings, items, cars and even buildings from Herberton. I spent the day walking around the place, taking it all in, reading all the displays. They even had an old camera store. A really well done village and worth a visit if your in far north Queensland.

I spent the rest of the day relaxing at the caravan park, sorting out a few things on the bike and just enjoying the beautiful scenery.

I've decided to go slow and really soak in the area and views, head to Atherton tomorrow and spend the night, load up with supplies. I think I will head up to the Daintree after Cairns.

Highest point

Day 35 - Archer Creek to Herberton - 57km

I filled up with bacon and eggs and began the climb up the next hill, I was heading to Ravenshoe the highest town in Queensland, hopefully that means it's all downhill from there. I stopped at big millstream falls, a huge waterfall. There some other travellers stopped me and said they had seen me the last 2 weeks riding from Cloncurry and we had a chat about my ride.

Ravenshoe is a beautiful town, preserving its old charm and history, I took the back road out, recommended by Paul and rode through winding hills and farm fields, ranges in the background. I came to a sign saying highest road in Queensland 1162m, surely now it's all downhill.

It was and almost scarily downhill, I pushed my max speed up to 52kmph, winding down through rainforest, not much room for 2 cars let alone a bike. Luckily the hairiest part no cars came behind me, maybe because I was doing the speed limit.

I took another road to Herberton, an old mining town with a historic village that is supposed to be the best in Australia. I rolled through town and there was a massive hill, it was the first time I I off and pushed joining a bunch of kids doing the same, I told them I've rode from Darwin they didn't believe me.

I got the the caravan park and set up and met some lovely people in the camp kitchen who offered a place to stay in the Whitsunday and another who helped me with my computer. I decided to stay for 2 days and have a little relax and enjoy this little town.

Indian Paul

Day 34 - Gravel pit to Archers Creek - 55km

I stopped into Mt. Garnet and filled up with supplies, sitting in the roadhouse grounds, I charged Mt electronics and reconnected with the Web. Talking to a few friends and enjoying a relax.

I headed on flying down hills in top gear and going up the otherside in the lowest gear. The hills here are mammoth, im crossing the great dividing range.

I pulled into the campsite, flat ground caravans encircled the grounds. A path lead down to the river and there were tents everywhere by the running creek, Archer Creek. I walk down and ask an old fella if I can camp on the otherside of this enormous tree, he said no worries, bring a plate over he has too much chicken and I'm free to join him. Indian Paul was his name, he was riding a Japanese replica of the American Indian motorcycle, he had owned it for over 20 years. We finished up and started a small fire and exchanged stories between sips and red wine and rum and cokes. A green tree snake joined us a while, we both checked our tents were zipped up. He had escaped NSW and was touring around Queensland wherever he pleased.

We talked into the night, he told me of his time in Europe in the 80s and of his motorcycle stories. I told him on my bicycle I have an affinity for motorcycles we are sharing the 2 wheels, he said likewise. We parted ways and I fell asleep to the sound of the nearby creek, looking forward to the bacon and eggs Paul had offered for breakfast.

Burger

Day 33 - Farmers gravel pit to a gravel pit - 106km

Rolled into Mt. Surprise a lovely little town, what I saw first was a lovely old house with beautiful garden it was the police station. I headed to the roadhouse and went inside. It felt like it hadn't aged in 30 years, on old lady shuffled out and I bought a couple of drinks and a burger to go.

The sign out front said they make burger like they used to and they weren't wrong, toasted bun and beetroot, just what I needed.

I hit the Kennedy Hwy, its always nice heading onto a new road they all have different feels to them and this road feels faster. Through 40 mile scrub, the road to the left burned and bare, the left lush and bursting with life.

I pulled into a gravel pit and had a little fire, wood ample and sipped on some herbal tea.

Trespassers prosecuted

Day 32 - Cumberland chimney to farmers gravel pit - 101km

The cool front came in last night and with it the wind.

I talk to a local outside the roadhouse in Georgetown he told me the roads were built as trucking routes single lane the whole way to cart cattle and have been that way for the last 50 years. Slowly being upgrading to dual lane when money becomes available.

The sentiment seems to be strong that the Queensland government only cares about Brisbane and that's where all the money goes and none is spent up in these parts.

There is a ridge ahead, my first real uphill challenge, it appears before me and I can't see where the road could possibly lead over it. I turn down to gears until I'm in the second lowest gear, psychologically so I know I have a reserve if needed, I don't use it. Round and round I go as the road snakes the slow incline up and over the hills.

I make it through, stopping only at the top, a good work out for the legs and a good test for the many hills to come.

I end up in a farmers gravel pit hoping I don't get woken up with a shotgun in my face, I think those days are gone anyway.

Chimney

Day 31 - Croydon to Cumberland chimney - 117km

I'm into the old Gold country now, the small towns are getting more close together and bigger, hosting two petrol stations.

I ended up staying at Cumberland Chimney an old Gold mine site with a man made lake at one time it had steam engines and was crushing the quartz to get the Gold but the it ran out quickly. All that's left is the old chimney and the lake now home to a flurry of bird activity.

I'm having a great time up on these roads, I'm cut off from the internet and the only connection to reality is word of mouth or on the radio the times I get reception.

Mad

Day 30 - Roadside to Croydon - 120km

I slept really well last night, there is something about wild camping, surrounded by bush.

The road is long, flat and straight, in the distance the road disappears into a mirage. It feels like you are on a treadmill going nowhere, the sun beaming down.

A trailine has joined me again, we are in Queensland so it's narrow guage, a tourist train which goes from one middle of nowhere to another.

I'm drinking like a fish, around 7 litres today, luckily the towns from here get closer and closer together. I ride into Croydon about 5pm and load up on water and a few cool drinks. I had a chat with the lady in the petrol station she said I was mad to be on my bike out here, its getting too hot. Maybe I am.

Despite it being a long day I've got pretty far 120km today. I'm trying to get my kms up yo beat the heat, I was told it will cool down at Mt. Surprise about 230km away, maybe I should push to get there in 2 days, we will see how I go.

Turning east

Day 29 - Flinders River to roadside - 101km

No crocs this morning basking in the sun unfortunately. As I rode out a big fat pig scampered into the push followed by a couple of piglets.

Normanton was my goal and I got there around lunchtime. I didn't realise it was Sunday, there wasn't many people around.

I went to the grocery store and got some supplies and a cold drink and sat out the front, watching the world go by. In these small towns I often find a spot which seems busy and sit and watch the activity.

A group of motorcyclists pulled up at the purple pub next door, leaving 10 bikes all lined up, they would pass me later on. An older chat leaves with his Sunday paper, a couple travelling in a converted van fill up with petrol. Another filled up a small jerry can, guessing for a lawnmower. This was an old style place a single bowser out front on the pavement and cars pulled in filled up on the road.

It's time to join the savannah way across the top, and head out of Normanton and turn left, heading the Cairns, the home straight.

Flinders River

Day 28 - Past B&W roadhouse to Flinders River - 124km

I had been warned but put it to the back of my mind, I came to the start of it and I took a break under a tree. Sections of this route are one lane only and roadtrains have right of way. I turned of my podcast and pedalled through, keeping a good eye on my mirror and up ahead. All went well, not much traffic on these roads, the one lane was intermittent for the next 50km.

I stopped at Bang Bang, unsure why it's called that but luckily the water tank was full, my shirt was getting stiff, it was caked in salt crystals, I gave it a wash and filtered some of the water adding some Hydralyte to replace the salts lost.

Three cattle roadtrains pulled over in quick succession with a bar in hand they were banging all the tyres, they found the culprit and in quick succession had it swapped over. They stopped by for a chat. They were headed to Cloncurry and I told them about my journey. They left telling me there is a nice hill to roll down up ahead.

I came to the spot I marked to camp at, a roadside stop but it was gravel and a bench covered in bird shit, no shade. I checked the map, next camp spot is 15km, the sun was going down. I soldiered on and came to a beautiful camp on the Flinders River, full of water and I heard you can see plenty of crocs here. I set up camp and had alittle fire to unwind, its been a long hot day, I'll go croc spotting in the morning and then make it into Normanton.

Bug

Day 27 - Terry Smith Lookout to just past Burke & Will's roadhouse - 112km

On the radio I heard it was going to be 37 today so I set off early to get some kilometres in before the heat hit. Hoping to get to Burke & Will's roadhouse, the halfway point between Cloncurry and Normanton.

The road started of hilly and then turned into a floodway, flat and straight, it really kills the morale. At least with turns and hills you push yourself hoping for a nice bit of downhill and even if it doesn't come, you keep hoping the next corner might be different. I came to the end of this straight and turned the corner meeting something entirely different.

Rob, a seasoned bicycle tourer who had been all over having got the bug early on. He had upgraded to an electric bike and had the full set up with battery packs and motors and could do around 200km a day. He told me a few good tracks to check out on my way down and even his number if I wanted to stay the night at his place in the Sunshine Coast on my way down. He left saying once you get the bug you won't be able to stop.

I made it to Burke & Will's and got a burger, it was bloody good and cheap too. After filling up with water and food I headed 10km down the road to my camp for the night.

I passed 2000km today.

The Curry

Day 26 - Tommy Creek to Terry Smith Lookout - 108km

I made it to Cloncurry, a lovely little town, there was some water in the river as I road over the bridge into "Curry" as the locals call it. The servo had frozen drinks which was a game changer and I wish more places did that.

I turned north heading to Normanton, I wanted to get back into the bush and away from the busy roads heading to Townsville. With less traffic it was a joy to ride, remaining hilly but heading into more cattle country.

I stopped at the side of the road and heard a neigh from the bushes beside me, a horse appeared. Last time I saw a horse, which wasn't in the back of a truck, was just near pine creek. A large pack of horses galloping in a paddock, that was a nice memory as they followed me along.

I stopped at a deserted roadhouse, roof almost blown off and slowly falling apart. Fenced off, a for sale sign on it. I guess with the mileage of modern cars a lot of roadhouses must have lost a lot of customers. I don't think it will sell and wonder how long it has been for sale.

I put on my radio and tuned into the abc north west, Queensland lives up to its reputation, I heard of a new mine in Julia Creek, a rodeo on that weekend and in-between a country song.

I pushed on past 100km and made it to the campsite, a chat with a grey nomad and a bottle of non alcoholic beer and I was in the tent ready for sleep.

Top speed

Day 25 - Mt. Isa to Tommy Creek - 94 km (15km by car)

I left Mt. Isa and headed out towards Cloncurry, I had filled up with tap water hoping it wasn't laced with lead and hit my first road block. A traffic light something I hadn't seen for along time before I made it into Mt. Isa. It was roadworks, talking to the worker on the side of the road, he said it goes on for a fair few kilometres, the road turned into one lane as they worked on the otherside. He told me if I head through last he will make sure I make it through safely.

I had encountered some roadworks before but in the middle of nowhere and that was stressful, pedalling hard and hoping a road train doesn't start coming my way before I made it out.

As I sat there preparing for the time trial, a guy next to me in his ute said do you want a lift. I accepted and we had the bike in the back of the ute and we were off. His name was Chris and he came to the mines for 6 months and stayed for 12 years. Genuine guy, Ray Ban sunnies on and a big help to me. He explained how most come to save money but then get accustomed to the high income and never leave. He dropped me off past the roadworks and I gratefully thanked him.

The road was skinny winding up and down hills, blind corners and at points big drops either side. The shoulders were tiny, there were rubble strips and cat eyes every 50m or so. I was going to have to be alert and make sure I didn't end up a statistic.

Because of the traffic lights behind, the traffic would come in bursts of about 10 vehicles and then nothing for a while. The roadworks weren't so bad after all.

I stopped at a turn and had a protein cookie and some powerade. The roadtrains from ahead were struggling past in low gears, there must of just come up quite a hill. I waited for the next pulse of cars and road trains to pass and set off.

This was a big old hill around a bend and I was rolling fast down it, checking my mirrors for cars behind me. I went to pedal and there was nothing, had my chain came off? I clicked through to the highest gear on the back cog still nothing, as I pushed through the the highest gear on the front cog I finally engaged as I darted another look at the mirror, still all clear.

The bend straightened out and we were still heading down deeper. I checked the speedo and we were hitting 40kmph, wind gushing past, I took command of the lane and flew onwards. Two roadtrains appeared coming the other way, a car behind me now might get me into a sticky situation, I decided to pedal faster, 45kmph past one road train, mirror still clear, 48lmph past the last one.

The adrenaline pumping and the momentum pushed me and I powered through the next kilometres with ease. It's good to be back in the saddle.

DAY OFF

Day 24 - Mt. Isa - Rest Day

I cycled down to the bike shop, I had taken off all my bags and the bike felt weird, so light and steering was a bit of an issue as I was so accustomed to the weight on the front wheel.

With my bike in the shop, I wandered the streets, did some shopping and stocked up on some TVP which Gernot had advised me on, to help keep my protein up. As well as an assortment of protein bars.

The site of the mine still gets me, looming over the town. It's a copper, zinc, lead & silver mine and the town has many issues with the rate of lead in the population. I guess its a hazard of living next to a huge mine or why most mining towns I've been to the mine is miles away from town.

Ive been looking at routes to Cairns and I have decided to go to Cloncurry and up to Normanton and then across to Cairns, see a bit more of remote Australia. My bike was ready and I got it back to the motel, repacked so I was ready to roll in the morning.

I've had a good relax and I am kind of ready to get out of here and back to the bush.

Mt. Isa

Day 23 - WWII Memorial to Mt. Isa - 53km

The road became more hilly as I made it closer to Mt. Isa, winding through the landscape. In the distance a chimney stack appears and then another. Great piles of dirt pile up and vast machinery. I've never been to a mining town but I didn't realise the mine is literally in the middle of town, dwarfing it as you walk the streets, plumes of smoke pumping out around the clock.

I check into a cheap motel for 2 nights, strip my bike down, its so light without the gear, maybe I should try and cut some of the weight down. I hit the streets to see what's in town. I bumped into some friends from Darwin outside a Cafe they were heading for the coast, strange how of all places we meet here.

The bike shop is fully stocked and has a workshop out the back, I organised to bring it in at 9am tomorrow morning to get the spoke fixed. I bought some more bar tape and regriped the bars my hands have been getting numb.

Clothes washed and belly full, I relax in the motel, soak in this air-con and try and bring my internal temperature down, its 33 outside and there is not a cloud in the sky.

I'm glad I chose here as my rest day, a town like this fascinates me.

Wind down

Day 22 - Inca Creek to WWII memorial - 64km

Today was a lazy day, I wanted to get close enough to Mt. Isa so that I could roll in tomorrow morning and book 2 nights in a motel and make full use of those days.

It's been 3 weeks since I've been on the road and I think it's time for my first day off. I've got to put my bike into the shop to get the spoke fixed, the replacement spoke kit has held up well, I've had no further issues. My feet, hands and butt are a little sore, a shower and sleep in a nice bed are in order.

Like most of the NT infrastructure the Barkly highway was built during WWII to help with the war effort. The old road is visible at this campsite and has been left as remembrance to those who built it.

I had a few chats with some grey nomads and set up my tent for the night. An old fella earlier had pointed to the incoming clouds and said it looks like rain tonight, I hope so.

Halfway

Day 21 - Kiama Creek to Inca Creek- 106km

I awoke early and hit the road, the border was close and I wanted to cross it, its been a milestone which has been on my mind since I turned right on to the Barkly. It also marks 1500km about halfway of my trip to Cairns.

I made it across and I was waved through, the police at the border are for only those going into the NT. I stopped for the trademark photo in front of the Welcome to Queensland sign. I've been riding with a flagpole at the back of bike and plan to add flags as I crossed borders so it was also a moment to add my first flag. I have the Aboriginal flag up top, the land I will always be riding on, then the NT and now the QLD flag.

I made it to Camooweal and stocked up on water and had a bit of a rest. A couple of grey nomads pulled into the servo from each direction and were bickering over who gets the diesel nozzle first, I watched on in amusement.

As I left Camooweal full of powerade and a strawberry milk, I had a spring in my step, I was flying along in a new state and the landscape was back to the familiar red ochre and bush scrub. I looked down at my bike computer and I was really flying, I realised my old friend, the head wind had left me and I pedalled on.

A little later on a ute flashed its lights at me and pulled over, I stopped and from the window came "Have you got time for a beer?" I joined him on his side and we had a few cans of VB and had a chat. His name was John a man in his 70s from Humpty Doo. He was on his way back from Normanton, visiting a place he worked at when he was a young man. He said he had seen me pedalling into the headwind a few days ago and was on his way back. He gave me a few tips on the road ahead and I left with a smile and a little tipsy but still half a beer in hand.

I pulled into Inca Creek 30km down the road, for the night and to my surprise had reception and after a few calls to friends, I sat back and finished the beer, content of a good day cycling and that I had clocked over 100km again, a lovely welcome to the sunshine state.

Cattle

Day 20 - Soudan bore to Kiama - 95km

Once I left the camp I came onto farm land, cattle stations as far as the eye can see, nothing but grass and the occasional tree.

I watched for a few kilometres as a helicopter herded cattle along the fence line, flying all over it pushed the stray cattle along, thousands of them, a motorcyclists at the front slowing them down. Quite a marvel to see, the modern day cattle station at work, horses replaced by modern methods.

I reached Avon Downs a weird spot with a police station, it must be the most remote police station in Australia. Not sure its purpose but I'm sure is coming in handy now we have border checks.

I decided go on a little further, itching to get across the border tomorrow. But the flat bare landscape didn't really offer many places to hide a tent. I went on further and further again, until I found Kiama Creek and found a little spot to lay my head for the night.

Not sure how the border crossing will go tomorrow. I've been told there are only NT cops at the border and coming from NT it's all open. We will see.

Juicebox & jelly

Day 19 - Old radio tower to Soudan bore - 54km

Late start this morning, wind still present, sun is out now, need to watch I don't get burnt.

I stopped for lunch at a patch of gravel, a bus stopped by and it was Susie and her 2 dogs, she was heading to Darwin to meet her son and try to rekindle the relationships with her other children up there. She gave me some juice boxes and jelly, I felt like a kid.

I made it into Soudan bore camp spot early and collected firewood. I was getting closer to the border now and it seems from here on out are giant cattle stations, im sure the landscape will change a lot.

I ate dinner and sat by the fire reading a book, im the only one here, water tank is dry but I'll have enough to make it across the border.

I had an early night.

Dingo?

Day 18 - Past Barkly Homestead to old radio tower - 60km

The sun is rising earlier now as I head east my usual alarm of 6.30 is now in daylight and I've pushed it back to 6am. The wind remains strong.

There I was riding head down and I checked my mirror, what is that about 100m behind, white and moving? I check there is no cars and swing out for a better look behind me and there it is a dog or is it a dingo? It's too white to be a dingo, or maybe dingos out here are white?, could it be albino? He looked well fed and curious looking at me strolling along the roadside. I kept riding and it kept following, I passed a sign for the next roadside stop, 5km. Is it dangerous I thought or friendly, is it a dingo or a farmers dog who wandered to the road, I kept my speed. For the next few kilometres it joined on my journey, downwind from me, I wondered what its nose was picking up. I pushed harder into the wind but it stayed that 100m behind me, visible in my mirror, casually trotting along. A few road trains past by and afterwards the dog was gone. There is life out here after all.

It reminds me of a story told to me by Jeremy a few days ago, a cyclist he met had be awoken in the night by a pack of dogs trying to enter his tent he managed to scare them off for a minute and bolted to the toilets at the remote campsite and spent the night there, claiming if they weren't there he would of died.

Feeling a bit silly I fish out a salami stick and my chain oil spray and move it up to the cockpit for easy access in case I have another encounter.

I met Tom an old bus driver from Melbourne, he was heading the other way trying to get home. He told me he saw a cyclist in Camooweal, so I might meet up with my second cyclist soon. He also said the winds don't stop until Townsville, so good and bad news.

Later in the afternoon a young guy in a car stopped and said there is another cyclist about 10km up the road. There he was Cody, big smile, we met on the side of the road, had a chat and he gave me some ground coffee and a tip of ghee. He had come from Newcastle via Cairns and was heading to Katherine. We swapped tips of the road ahead and heading opposite ways.

Last stop

Day 17 - Frewena to just past Barkly homestead - 66km

The wind changed today from a crosswind to a headwind and even though I rode for an hour longer I only made 66km. That's okay though if I can average that I'll make it across the border in about 4 days.

I stopped into the Barkly homestead and got a burger and loaded up with 16 litres of water. The next roadhouse is Camooweal on the otherwise of the border and so far all tanks are dry on the Barkly Highway. If push comes to shove I could ask some grey nomads for some water but that's no fun. It’s about 260km until the next roadhouse.

I ride on past Barkly Homestead about 10km further and found a spot to camp behind a pile of rocks so I'm hidden away from the road but also the wind.

My downloads of podcasts have all been listened too, so I pull out the audiobooks. I've been listening to 'Zen and the art of motorcycle maintaince' I'm not sure what to think of it so far but it has kept my mind busy as the kilometres slowly pass by.