Isolated

Day 16 - 41 mile to Frewena - 60km

I had been warned of the westerly wind but there was no way around it and today it was a hard cycle into the wind luckily Jeremy and Nadia had set me off with a belly full of eggs, mushrooms, toast and coffee.

The road kill and burst tyres by the roadside had dried up and all that was left was the occasional pee bottle. The traffic has slowed up and it's an isolated ride out here.

At least the weather remains cool and the sun hasn't been seen since I made it to Tenant Creek. A local at threeways told me that it will be cool for a few days but it will be back to 35 in a few days. So I better get those kilometres up.

Even though I rode well under my goal of 100km and I had a lovely breakfast, I arrived to camp the hungriest I've been so far on the trip. I had a feast of all the different foods I have.

It's going to be a long ride to the border, I will have to stock up at the Barkly Homestead tomorrow. I wonder when the wind will die down.

Heading East

Day 15 - Tennant Creek to 41 mile bore - 93km

I've been trying not to carry baked beans due to the weight of the tin, but I gave in a bought a few tins, I've got to keep my protein up unless I want to end up like a chicken with huge legs and skinny arms. I've got to tell you the thought of some baked beans keep me going into the strong head winds of the Barkly highway.

The traffic has really dropped off, even more so heading east. Enough that a road train driver stopped and had a chat, with his truck just idling on the road.

I made it to the camp spot, no water in the tank but there was plenty of firewood around. I gathered some wood, set up my tent and cooked my beans. With nightfall I started the fire up.

Jeremy and Nadia came in late in their converted bus and we had a great chat about travelling, life and other cyclists they had seen on the road. They offered me a lovely meal and I settled in for the night.

The wind which had troubled me all day kept my tent flapping all night.

Fingers crossed

Day 14 - Attack Creek to Tenant Creek - 69km

I passed 1000km today, about a third of the way to Cairns. The rain came down today and the wind really picked up. I haven't felt this cold in a while. I limped into Tenant Creek cold and wet to the news there is no bike shop. Ill have to take the risk and hope my emergency spoke holds up to Mt. Isa where the closest bike shop is.

Tenant Creek an old gold mining town and now looks more like a ghost town, one old camera shop I saw, still had film on its shelves. I stocked up on food, had a shower and washed my clothes. I think I'm the only person staying at this motel, the pool empty and the road sign flickering, it would be a good set for a movie.

Tomorrow I will head back to Threeways, turn right onto the Barkly Highway and start my trek across the continent and towards my first border and into Queensland, I hope the rain doesn't hold up.

Passing by

Each night as I lay in my tent, im normally not to far from the road and this amazing spectacle happens. At first you hear the rumble in the distance and then slowly the roadside begins to light up, ever so slightly, it begins to morph and change as light begins to dance across trees and leaves. At first, you can't make out what you are looking at then as it gets closer the light gets brighter and you see the trees take form. Then the roadtrain passes, its trailers outlined by lights, rumble past and then once again your are in complete darkness.

Attack Creek

Day 13 - Mt. Grayling to Attack Creek - 105 km

Inspection of the bike unfortunately found a broken spoke on the back wheel, the nipple had fallen inside the rim and was rattling around. The whole wheel had to come off, tyre and tube removed to put in a new nipple and use a spoke replacement kit. I searches my bags high and low and can't find my spare spokes, I've got a bad feeling I forgot to pack them. Hopefully the replacement will get me to Tenant Creek, where I don't even know if they have a bike shop.

I had a swam of crickeys follow me on one section, jumping and flying around me, at times being picked off by birds as I rode.

I made it to Attack Creek a spot in which Stuart as his touring party met aboriginal warriors, armed with boomerangs, forcing them to return to Adelaide, where they regrouped to again try and cross the great continent.

I passed by a young kid in a tractor, pulling a trailer and what looked like a plane fuselage on top. Seems like he was travelling all around Australia, I guess I'm not the only lunatic around.

Tanks

Day 12 - Newscastle Waters to Mt. Grayling - 97km

First stop was Elliot, it comes out of nowhere, a small town with a clinic and school, mainly aboriginal population. The guy at the servo said they call it the forgotten town of Elliot as no one takes much notice of it.

I loaded up with 10 litres of water to get me to the next roadhouse, I sat and had a pie and a powerade. I watched as huge OVERSIZE trucks with a pilot vehicle came past one by one, hauling huge military tanks, I counted at least 8 go past.

You see all sorts of things on the back of road trains, cars, boats, hay, cattle, houses, containers, diesel, heavy machinery and more. Three or four trailers long they snake along the landscape majestically. When one passes it really wakes you up and gives you a good rattle.

In the middle of the day, I stopped for a rest and had to make my own shade, even the road signs had no shadow. A girl stopped and gave me a can of Monster, she said sorry its not cold, but it was colder than anything I had and went down nicely a welcome relief from my tepid water.

Past Elliot the green roadside markers have changed to "TC 210km", I think I'll get a room for the night there, reorganise a few things, wash my clothes, and stock up on some food and water. My clothes have had white chalkish marks on them for a while now, salt from my sweat crystallising.

The last 10km of riding today gave me my first site of rain for over a year, a light sprinkling, it was lovely to feel the rain again. As I sit at my camp I can see in the distance a giant downpour, slowly edging its way closer, should make for a great sleep.

Barkly

Day 11 - Daly Waters to Newscastle Waters - 117km

I've entered the Barkly region now and the landscape has really changed, its flat, burnt country as dry as it comes, even the town names allude to their supply of water. The hardest part is there is little to no shade. Luckily the first clouds I have seen have been out and they are welcome relief. Sometimes they follow me as I ride sometimes they played the old carrot and the stick and were just out of range, spurring me on to ride faster.

The roadkill has all but disappeared, the few animals you see out here are lizards basking on the roadside, the odd bird in the distance and the millions of flies whenever you stop.

Gernot had warned me there is little water out here, most roadside tanks are bone dry and when I pulled into Newscastle Waters for the night that was the case. A young couple gave me a few litres luckily which would be enough to get to Elliot tomorrow.

I camped next to the road on a ridge with a lovely breeze, the ground rock hard, I bend a peg trying to pound it into the ground, instead I found some large rocks which worked just as well.

Cold drink

Day 10 - Corrie Airstrip to Daly Waters - 112km

Last night a car pulled in late and gave us all a fireworks show which was great. A belated Territory Day day celebration. Territory Day is where for one day a year you can buy and set off fireworks. It's one of my favourite days, a night of mayhem where fireworks are going off left right and centre. So I'm glad I got to see a couple go off.

A quick stop off at Larrimah to get some water, had a few chats with the grey nomads, the road is full of them. Pulling caravans, driving old converted buses, all levels of comfort can be achieved, you just pay your price at the bowser. A friendly nomad later gave me a cool bottle of alcohol free beer and took my photo. Another couple pulled up along side me and asked if I needed anything. The answer is always a cold drink.

I kept heading south with a vague idea I might get to Daly Waters. The landscape is getting alot drier and I passed fields of spear grass just waiting to go up in a crackling fire. The stops are getting few and far between, so I kept pedalling, the enticement of a cold beverage kept me going the last 20km, by now my water was as warm as a nice shower and wasn't really hitting the spot.

I bypassed Daly Waters pub, last time I was there was for a BNS ball and want that to be my lasting memory of the place. I pulled in to the servo at the Borroloola turn off and quenched my thirst. A young guy pulled up in his Ford wagon and we had a yarn.

He told me he was heading around Australia from Melbourne he was winging his way around, heading to Darwin and then to Broome. He told me about a hippie commune I should check out near Cairns, I wrote down the name, might stop by when I get there.

I broke 100km today but it wasn't easy, let's see what tomorrow brings.

Mirage

Day 9 - Mataranka to Gorrie WWII Aistrip - 92km

I've hit my rhythm now, or at least it's improving, my aim is 100km a day and im slowly getting there. I've decided to do the Mount Isa way across to Queensland, stick to the bitumen, as a friend said its better to ride then push your bike around Australia.

I was in the zone my mind was elsewhere just 10km to go to the campsite, there over the horizon came this mirage, rising from the pavement. I didn't acknowledge it at first, what is it? It's moving in pace with me, is there a giant mirror in the middle of the road? I'm looking at myself, then I noticed the detail, feathers rising from its helmet, that was how I met Gernot.

Gernot was a cyclist heading the opposite way, he was travelling the same route but in reverse, Cairns to Darwin, he was on his 32nd day, we stopped by the side of the road and Gernot offered a joint the timing was perfect.

We talked about the subtle enjoyments of the ride only cyclists in our position could describe. We swapped information and details about where we came from, water sources, suggestions.

I always find when I travel I meet the right people at the right time, even in the middle of nowhere on the Stuart Highway.

Head down

Day 8 - Katherine to Mataranka - 110km

I overslept my alarm in Katherine, I was hoping for an early morning getaway but unfortunately "Hunt for the Wilderpeople" was on SBS the night before and I had to finish it.

Armed with a double cheeseburger tucked in my bag, I hit the road hoping to clock up the kilometres. It was slow moving and a wrong turn didn't get me off in the best of spirits.

I fell back to an old trick, learned when I was a young kid. When your legs start to get sore, lookdown at the pedals and count each turn, 1...2...3...4...5..., go back to the smallest step and focus on that, just one more pedal and then another.

One step at a time, it really does help and I use this in the grand scheme of the trip, if I look to the end point now, it seems impossible but if I focus onto each step, each pedal its not that hard.

The train has left me for this stretch and the landscape has changed, the trees are a little shorter, the dirt a little redder and the hills less frequent. They say Katherine is where the desert meets the tropics, as I roll slowly along the heat is more bearable, the humidity has dropped even if the mercury has gone up 5°, im sweating less and there is more breeze. The main difference are the nights are a lot cooler. 

Mataranka is my next stop but I think it will be brief, maybe a dip in the thermal pools and then keep heading south to Daly Waters where I am still deciding if I make a hard left there or at Three ways and begin my ride across to Queensland.

Dry as a Bone

Day 6&7 - Pine Creek to Katherine - 95km

My first real day spent on the Stuart Highway, I had been dreading it somewhat however it was easier than I thought. The road has smoothed out the peaks and throughs of the landscape so it's pretty easy riding. Sure some cars get a little too close for comfort and the road trains give you a rattle as they pass but most of the time you're cruising along on your own. A few toots of encouragement and waves from passing motorists do help you push on.

At one point I stopped on a bridge for a rest, below was a dry creek bed, something caught my eye. I ventured down to the sandy bottom and there it was, a crocodile, dry and missing half its snout. The poor bastard left high and dry when the water stopped flowing.

The weather has changed as I’ve made it this far down. The nights are colder and the days hotter, Ive adjusted by riding earlier in the morning and by the time it hits the mid 30s, I find a shady spot, relax and settle in for the night.

I've rolled into Katherine about midday and booked a room for the night, resupplied, this will be the last biggish town until I make it across the border.

Grove Hill

Day 4&5 - Robin falls to Pine Creek - 133km

I had an early start and was on the road at 5am, frogs jumped across the beam of my lights as I set off. It really made a difference riding in the cool mornings, I drank less water and travelled further, reaching the Stuart Highway around 9am. A local at Batchelor had told me that the road via Grove Hill to Pine Creek was in good condition, so I headed that way, trying to get as far as I could and hopefully make it to Pine Creek the next day.

Grove Hill is a historic pub, A tin shack, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, I went there once a few years ago after prospecting in nearby Margeret diggings. It's a time capsule an old pub that has been there for generations, it serviced the local miners and prospectors in the gold rich regions around it. The story goes that back in the day, people would jump off the train, have a beer and a feed and jump on the next train going past. Sadly it closed a few years back but the old owner is enjoying his retirement there.

I camped behind a giant termite mound next to the train line and listened to the feral donkeys into the night. The next morning the road slowly deteriorated and I spent hours pushing my bike up and down, rocky water destroyed tracks, wondering if one last look as Grove Hill was worth it.

I've put my feet up at Pine Creek, had a feed and a much needed shower and I'm going to stick to the Stuart from now on, hoping to get to Katherine in two days time.

Robin falls

Day 3 - Batchelor to Robin Falls - 44km

Robin falls is a special place for me, its a beautiful spot. A waterfall which has over time carved a valley between two ranges, and in doing so creating a little oasis. The small creek flows past the campsites which line its banks, each site giving you your own section to relax in. Egrets wade through picking up fish as kingfishers dive from the trees, living upto their name.

The water and the valleys each side, cool the climate down and give you much needed shade from the elements.

I first stopped here in 2018, on my drive up the centre to Darwin, I crowned it the best camp of the trip and have been many times, once even camping at the top of the waterfall with my friend Tom.

The way in from Batchelor, via coach road, was beautiful, small country roads spotted with large farms as well as the odd glimpse of the old rail line. A 10km section of unsealed road, rattled loose a screw holding my front rack which I had to Maygyver back into place with some cable ties. I had a spare screw in the bottom of my bag but temperature was still cool and the sun wasn't biting yet.

After a short stop at Adelaide River, I hit Dorat road knowing that a cool croc-free creek was waiting for me but also that I'm pretty sure there is a big hill in there somewhere. The luck was in my favour however the steep climb was on the way out and I screamed down the hill, according to my bike comp hitting 40kmph, the fastest yet.

Arriving at Robin Falls was a relief and a quick plunge put it my ease.

The last few days have been mentally challenging but I feel today, sitting by the creek watching the Kingfishers, that I can do this.

Pushing through

Day 1&2 - Howard Springs to Batchelor - 95km

With a lovely farewell from Trevor and Roy, I set off into the morning mist, savouring the last sealed bike track I would see for a while.

I decided to follow the old train line bike track from Coolalinga through to Batchelor, it looked good on paper but the track was very rough and the heavy bike sank into the soft sand.

I knew the first few weeks would be tough, the physical challenges coupled with the heat made it a hard slog. Nothing that regular stops couldn’t help with.

A nice lady stopped and told me there were a couple of Buffulo wandering the road up ahead and made sure I got through safely. It was one of the highlights so far, along with rolling into Batchelor.

Ill set up camp tonight and aim to get to robin falls tomorrow for a camp and a dip in the creek.

Lift off

Day 0 - Darwin to Howard Springs - 30km

After so many hiccups the last being the snap three day lockdown in Darwin, I am sure it will not be the last one.

Thats all behind me now and I am on the road and burning rubber. My bike is packed to the gills and riding smooth, only 3000km to go to Cairns and spirits are high. It has been a long time coming and it feels amazing to finally be on track. There is something about setting off and knowing that you don’t need to turn around and go back at any point. It’s freedom I suppose, and it’s something that has felt in short supply the past few years.

My first stop is Howard Springs to see my some old friends Trevor, the rubbish warrior, and Roy.

Prologue

My bike arrived and I set off for a quick 2 day trip around the bay. Everything worked well and I enjoyed it immensely, itching to hit the road. Water was the only issue and I plan to place a milk crate on the back rack to give me a bit of extra space.

One task was left, head to Melbourne see family and friends and store all my belongings. Unfortunately Lockdown occurred and being stuck in Melbourne indefinitely with the buildup approaching was not a good place to be.

The decision was made to do 2 weeks isolation at Howard Springs and set off early August instead.

Fingers crossed this is the last setback and the next post will be on the road.

Frustrations

I was hoping to be on the road by now, self sufficient, rolling along, not a care in the world.

Covid has destroyed many peoples plans and many of my own but at least for my trip it is only delaying my eventual departure.

I have all my equipment, bags, clothes, etc. yet one thing remains to not arrive yet, my bike, the most important part. I ordered it last year, with a date of early April, now months on and constant delays the new date is June 28th. Oh well, I have time to experience some more of the dry season.

I have decided to write a blog of my trip, sporadically updated, internet permitting, of my journey across Australia.

My next post will be on my bikes arrival.