High winds

Day 86 - Sydney to Nepean River - 70km

After following some bike tracks and side streets, I met an old man getting his bins in and had a chat about my trip. This far in the journey most people are shocked I've come from Darwin and to be honest it doesn't feel real to myself.

I turned onto the freeway and joined the traffic heading west out of Sydney. The shoulder was littered with gravel, sticks, wheel trims and the odd badge which I added to my collection. The Hume highway has been my best highway for picking up badges and consequently the most busiest. I managed to pick up a Mercedes which I had been wanting to add to the collection.

After leaving the city outskirts the wind picked up and that coupled with the passing of b-doubles every few seconds, blew me around a bit and at some points became a little to close for comfort. At times with heavy winds I swapped to pushing my bike. The shoulder disappeared at bridges and I pushed again but it allowed me to get some beautiful views of rivers flowing far below with sharp rocky escarpments either side.

One close call had me falling over towards traffic luckily I was still inside the shoulder and got my heart racing.

After a long day and a few close calls I set up camp in the bush near one of these rivers and prepared my dinner. The temperature began to drop and I was in for a cold night.

Syd

Day 82-85 - Sydney

After getting soaked my first point of call was to get a proper waterproof jacket as from here on I will be getting a lot more rainfall, I ended up with a Northface jacket and gave it a spin in the Sydney rain.

I met up with a fan of my zine in Redfern, Henry and had a beer and a good chat. He even brought a zine for me to sign.

I also met up with an old housemate from Melbourne, Ross, we explored some galleries and checked out one of my favourite buildings in Sydney, the brutalist Sirius building currently being gutted and turned into fancy apartments, such a shame from its history as government housing.

The beauty of circular quay always gets me, Sydney is such a beautiful city.

The rain continued and I decided the cinema was a good option and ended up seeing the new James Bond, exotic places, beautiful women, action, car chases, it was a good escape.

By the end of my time there I was itching to get back on the road again.

Sydney

Day 81 - Woy Woy to Sydney - 62km

Taken after nearly falling down the stairs getting my bike up.

I awoke early to get the first ferry at 6am, the sun was rising as I rode and that coupled with the calm waters made for a beautiful ride along the foreshore to the ferry stop.

The ferry was pretty full of commuters and I managed to get my bike in. Two dogs ran around as we set off across the water. Inwas standing to keep my bike steady and when we passed the heads into the rough seas we jumped around a bit. I was glad when we passed the other heads into calmer water, I was beginning to feel a little sea sick.

As I've found in most big cities, the cycling infrastructure is patchy and almost dangerous when you get to the outskirts and progressively improves until you get to the city centre.

At a set of lights I talked to some other cyclists, a middle aged man said to follow him he will take me to hlHarbour Bridge. It was very kind of him as we criss-crossed down side streets and through parks, joining together the many cycle routes.

After leaving my new friend the rain began and didn’t stop until I made it to the motel. Soaked and tired, I decided I need to get a waterproof coat.

Fernleign

Day 80 - Newcastle to Woy Woy - 108km

Eliza joined me on the Fernleign track rail trail on my way to Sydney, passing along the old train lines past old stations and through a beautiful tunnel.

I stuck to the pacific highway and with glimpses of the beach. I stopped to talk to a council worker having his lunch and he advised me to take the ferry from Ettalong to Palm Beach and get into Sydney that way, a better ride and will avoid a lot of the traffic. It sounded like a great idea.

Every time I come to Sydney the landscape and the harbour always surprise me with their beauty. I didn't know that the same landscape extends up north of Sydney.

I was close to the ferry but knew it was too late to get it and I needed a place to camp. I found a little hidden spot behind a signal box next to the train line and waited for nightfall to setup.

Newy

Day 78 & 79 - Newcastle

I rode into Newcastle and past the docks, carriages and carriages of coal rolled past and then came back empty, once a steel town, now a coal town, I hope it can transition again to something more sustainable.

It's industrial history is seen all over the city, old buildings scattered amongst the new.

I met up with a friend I had met in Darwin just before I had set off on my test trip. It was to see them again on the otherside of the country and towards the end of my journey. Eliza and Rob welcomed me into their home and we spent some time at the beach and had a swim in the surf.

Rob helped me with a much needed service of my bike and it was riding like new.

Badges

Day 77 - Coolongolook to Raymond Terrace - 102km

I had been picking up car badges from the start of my trip but for some reason this section I picked up a load to add to my collection, placing them on the back of my bike, still hoping to get a few more different makes.

My deadline to be in Sydney was creeping up but I'd made good time so that I could spend sometime in Newcastle on my way through. I was getting close and decided to get as close as I could but still free camp somewhere. I found a little side road which seemed like it wasn't used much, overgrown dirt road. I set up close to a roundabout.

Rivers

Day 76 - Hastings River to Coolongolook - 120km

Towns were getting closer and closer together and I rode through some little towns, I stopped into Nabiac a quant little town and got a burger and had a chat with a few locals.

The fires had come through parts of here but I think the worse is further south. Blackened trees and little scrub showed signs but seemed to be healing well.

I crossed many rivers and many were very wide, making sure I was holding on tight and fighting the crosswinds I rode over and got some short glimpses of the views down river.

I found a great little spot between the highway and a farmers property overlooking a dam but hidden in tree cover.

Roadside

Day 75 - Repton to Hastings River - 124km

It's amazing what good cycle infrastructure can do, the freeway had been built with cycling in mind and has enabled me to get some pretty good kilometres up.

It can be a little dull sticking to the freeway however and ducking off to check out towns is a good breakup from the highways.

I pulled into Kempsey and almost got hit by a car, suddenly the freeway didn't look so bad after all. It was a nice little town on the side of the river. A lot of towns around these parts didn't have roads to them and the river was the main arterials. You can tell as the old infrastructure is based right on the river.

I got a pizza and strapped it to my bike and headed back to the freeway, riding on trying to find a little spot I could pull over and put up a tent.

The day was growing long and there were few roads or places to pull over, I eventually just pulled over at a little verge and set up there. The sound of trucks flying past keeping me up but I finally got to sleep.

Big banana

Day 74 - Grafton to Repton - 100km

I met Frank in the morning and we had another yarn. I set off and was glad to hear the WA missing girl had been found alive and well, putting a spring in my step.

The lovely smooth highway with bike lane finished up just before coffs harbour and turned into winding roads with no verge and was a little hairy. Turns out there has been backlash at building a bypass around Coffs Harbour and I was back on the original highway.

I saw the big banana, a little underwhelming, on the side of a bustling highway on a corner but I was glad to see it.

I stopped in town for a little look and talked to a local who gave me a good route out of Coffs along a bike track and then onto the old highway. Also told me a cyclist had been killed a few years ago on these roads.

I road on and found a little spot under a bridge for my camp that night. Full of mozzies but I put on a good serving of Bushman's heavy duty which keeped most of them away.

Frank

Day 73 - New italy to Grafton - 82km

I was having enough of the highway and turned off a side road taking me to Grafton. It was a lovely ride through sugar cane farms and cattle farms. Riding alongside the huge Clarence River.

I stopped in the small town of Ulmarra, it has a free ferry across the river and big mansions lined it's banks. I checked out the antique shop and left with an antique little pin.

I got a call from my friend Trevor in Darwin saying his mate was in Grafton and we should meet up. Not long after I I waved down by Frank, the friend, and we ended up meeting in Grafton.

He lived in the area a long time and told me a few great stories including the time he drove an old Sydney double decker bus to Byron Bay and parked it in the sand dunes, where he lived as well as a conveyor belt of hippies.

A big truck pulled up at the servo and we both said how clean and shiny it looked the driver said he comes into Grafton to support the servo as they have the best food around.

Big prawn

Day 72 - Maca's Camp to New Italy - 119km

I made my way to Byron in the morning and saw the lighthouse and beach views, ticking off visiting Australia's most eastern point.

The ride to Ballina I hugged to coast and saw many surfers heading out to the waves.

A quick stop at the big prawn and I was back onto the freeway carving through state forest. The roads set up to protect the wildlife, was great to see, with over head and tunnels to allow the crossing of animals.

I pushed on and made it to a little camp just past New Italy, there were just two of us in the bush camp and I had a lovely sleep.

Maca's

Day 71 - Mullumbimby - rest day

I awoke and met the babysitter, Bri, a 20 something girl with red dreadlocks, she said I should check out Macas camp up in the hills and see Unicorn Falls.

I rode to macas along beautiful country roads and across creeks and streams, past farms and rolling hills. Macas camp was a large area surrounded by bush, a great big tree right in the middle. A zip line had been set up bit was told it needs to be approved by council.

The place was full of long termers, hippies and stoner's enjoying the cheap prices and the pull of Mullumbimby and Byron. Some came years ago and never left. I met Roger an old fella, went through the swinging sixties in London and then came out to Australia. He gave me an astrological reading along with a cup of port and told me a few stories from his life.

We had a fire and Bri twirled a fire stick and I met others from the camp. I'm glad I got a little taste of the Northern Rivers region of NSW.

Mullum

Day 70 - Brunswick Heads to Mullumbimby - 10km

My spot was safe and I slept through the night, on my ride in there was a photographer and he took my photo as I rode past and waved. Further along there he was again and he waived me down and we had a nice chat and he took more photos as I rode off.

It was a nice entrance into Mullumbimby, I relaxed at the park and made a few phones calls, saw a guy with a dingo and lots of people strolling by. I’ve heard a lot about Mullumbimby and it seemed like a lovely place.

I had arranged to meet with Eliza and stay at her place a friend of Sarah's. I met up and the 3 kids were all excited for Halloween, I helped decorate the front of the house with cobwebs. We talked and had a lovely dinner.

Wild camp

Day 69 - Gold Coast to Brunswick Heads - 76km

I headed off in the morning a little hungover and headed to the coast and along, before I knew it I was crossing the border and was in NSW, I added my flag and continued on, hugging the coast on some nice bike paths running between the beach and houses a lovely ride.

Unfortunately a lot of camps were full and from what it looked like by long termers. I knew that a lot of queenslanders had been locked out of the state and many must be living in these places awaiting the border to open and to head home.

I decided to wild camp and as I rode was looking for a nice secluded spot to set up. I ended up on an old road, not as secluded as I hoped so I waited for the sunset to set up and will pack down before sunrise.

It feels crazy to now be in NSW and the next state crossing will be into Victoria and to my final destination of Melbourne.

Backstage

Day 67 & 68 - Gold Coast - rest days

We got breakfast beside a beautiful creek at Burleigh Heads, school kids swimming in the creek, we took a walk around the head with a great view over the surfers.

I was staying with Abbey and Holly Vaggs, two sisters I had worked with in Darwin. Over the next few days I was thrown into their big family. Chaotic at times with 3 young kids (one who broke broke wrist) and a baby. It was fast paced and full of love. A little jarring from my solitude ride but incredibly enjoyable.

It culminated in going to see the band King Stingray, a 5 piece from Nhulunbuy with family links to Yothu Yindi. With grandma looking after the kids, 6 of us piled into a prado and as we drove in lighting filled the sky with flashes of light.

Out the front we met Roy one of the band mates but also an old friend of the Vaggs from Nhulunbuy. I felt very honoured to have met him in this way. Fast forward to a little later and we were backstage meeting the whole band!

The show was incredible and the crowd was loving it, we all bought a band tshirt and stood at the front. The band had only released a few songs so got to hear a lot of new music. Suddenly it was all over and the crowd was chanting "One more song!" And erupted when the band came back out.

We ended up Backstage again and told them how great the show was and bid them farewell.

What a night it was and the kind which you normally only daydream about. It was also a great ending to my time in Gold Coast and I can't thank the Vaggs family enough for letting me stay with them and giving me a great experience I won't forget.

Bike escort

Day 66 - Brisbane to Gold Coast - 99km

I left my hostel and some great people gave me a hand getting in and out of the old lift. I entered into the great bike tracks flowing out of Brisbane CBD and passed many cyclists heading into work.

A mad cyclist stopped me and we had a chat, I told him I'm heading to Gold Coast and he said he can take me halfway, he is just out for the exercise. Luckily he was there as the bike track is being upgraded and there were a few spots heading through construction and side roads which would have left me puzzled.

Some friends from up in Darwin had kindly offered to stay at their place in the Gold Coast, I rolled in about 5ish. We caught up on stories and had a lovely dinner and I met their lovely mum Sarah. I was felt very welcome and decided to stay another night to see about more of the Gold Coast.

Brissy

Day 63-65 - Brisbane - rest days

I've never been to Brisbane and I'd only heard good things about it. The hostel was great right in the city near the town hall, it used to be a salvos boarding house and still had that run down vibe, it was complete with the original lift with the metal cage.

First things first I needed a mask, it's been a long time since I needed one. I explored the inner city and was impressed with Brisbane and I soaked in the buzz of the big city.

I went to all the museums I could find and travelled up to the clock face of the city hall. The city hall was very grand and built to put Brisbane on the map and cement it as a city. Differing from Melbourne and Sydney it was a city hall not a town hall.

The city has embraced electric scooters and bikes and the cycle lanes were numerous and well thought out, it felt like an active city and the river running through the city was the centrepiece.

I caught up with some old friends from Darwin now living in Brisbane and had an amazing night catching up. I enjoyed my time in Brisbane and was left energised and it's a city I will definitely visit again and possibly even live in.

Brisvegas

Day 62 - Sunny Coast to Brisbane - 92km

Eager to get to Brisbane I set off early down Steve Irwin Way, the road was terrible, no verge, windy and lots of traffic. I dreamed of being back in the Bruce with its wide verge and direct routing. Luckily about halfway a gravel track appeared, rarely used but it was there.

I passed Australia Zoo and a big Steve Irwin, poor guy. I rode on and made it to the outskirts of Brisbane. And bounced between a lovely bike lane, which suddenly ends, separate tracks for 2km and then nothing to riding the footpath and on the road with no verge. Then suddenly an amazing bike path appeared, cyclists whizzing past and all sign posted, I must be close to the city now.

I rode under a huge spaghetti junction of roads going everywhere, under and over each other. High rise buildings appeared on the distance and I rode into the city centre. The streets were alive with people, traffic and amazing architecture. After so many days on the road it felt good to be in a big city again bit I felt a but out of place.

I found my hostel and my last challenge, about 6 steps to go up to get in and check in. I heaved my way up almost falling over, checked in and collapsed on the bed. I've never been to Brisbane and can't wait to explore the city.

Sunny Coast

Day 61 - Gympie to Sunny Coast - 114km

I veered of the Bruce Hwy and hugged the coast, taking in the boat lined rivers and the beautiful beaches. The Sunshine Coast where everyone has surfers hair and a tan. It was an amazing ride switching between the undulated road, to beach broadwalks and through holiday resorts. A nice change having bike paths.

I pulled back to the Bruce to get to my camp-site and a new sign appeared, NO BICYCLES, I guess Bruce and I must part ways. Luckily there was a slip road that took me to my camp at the start of the Steve Irwin Way surely Steve won't let me down.

I setup at the camp, this is the last free camp before Brisbane and it shows, there were long termers here and many living in their cars, causing no problems but a sign of the times.

Pizza

Day 60 - Maryborough to Gympie - 82km

I found a fluoro yellow jacket on the side of the road, perfect timing as the traffic was getting busy and the verge seemed to be shrinking too. Now I really stand out plus it helps with the rain.

I really love the queenslander houses and the variants, you can see how over the years they have been added too and extended, they have real character.

I decided to get a pizza, bad decision, as soon as I had it on the back of my bike and set off the rai cane down again. Storms had been hitting Queensland the last few days, with hailstones breaking record for their size, luckily I haven't seen any, probably do a lot of damage to my tent.

I stopped on the roadside and hid under a shelter and ate my pizza. The camp-site I was heading to had some bad reviews for some locals living there, didn't see any signs when I got there, grey nomads complaining about nothing.